Saturday 14^th November, 09:35

Picton, New Zealand

In the height of Covid Lockdown, two Kiwis were walking on the beach in Gisborne, one day. They came across God who was also on the beach.

“Hey,” one of the Kiwi’s addressed God. “What are you doing here in Gisborne?”

“Working from home,” God replied.

***

That was just one of the stories from Tony in seat 17C. I was in seat 17D, also onboard a flight to Auckland – the first of my two leg journey to Dunedin, South Island. Tony was keen for a chinwag as we soared across the North Island. He regaled me with tales about his Whakapapa (Genealogy), his military days and a fantastic story in which, when invited to give an impromptu speech at a wedding on Barry Island, he opted for a Haka instead. I wish I’d heard this story BEFORE I gave a speech at my sister’s wedding. 

Thrown into daily life on the North Island and all there is to do, it can be quite easy to forget that there’s another island to explore (2 if you include Stewart Island). This trip would take me up the east coast of the South Island – from Dunedin to Christchurch and then Picton where I would board the ferry across the Cook Strait to meet a friend from Medical School in Wellington. 

Dunedin won me over instantly. Quite clearly a student town, it was full of bars, cafes, and lived up to its alternate name as Edinburgh of the South with tartan and shortbread for days. I’d flown out to New Zealand with chunky knitwear aplenty which I hadn’t been able to use in sunny ol’ Gisborne, so I was glad of the Dunedin chill on this trip. This is probably the best time to mention that I had only realised that Dunedin and Dúnedain (as in Dúnedain Rangers from Lord of the Rings) were pronounced differently, a few weeks earlier…which saved me some embarrassment in front of some of the hospital folk. 

I regret that I didn’t have time to visit Emerson’s or Speight’s Breweries, but had a wonderful evening stargazing on the Otago Peninsula, diving into star lore including that of Matariki and the six sisters. Matariki is the Maori name for what the Greeks called The Pleiades, or Seven Sisters.

Story time

According to traditional Māori knowledge, the Sky Father, Ranginui and the Earth Mother Papatūānuku were separated from their eternal embrace by their sons who were cramped between them and no longer wanted to live in darkness. All the brothers agreed to this, except for Tāwhirimātea, god of Weather. In anguish at the separation of his parents, Tāwhirimātea tore out his eyes and threw the pieces into the heavens from where they have looked down on man ever since. Matiriki and the six sisters rise after winter solstice and use their mana – power – to guide the weakened sun on his journey back south.  

It was a story that was told much better when I was huddled under a blanket (also clad in chunky knitwear) with a steaming hot chocolate, looking between the stars and the storyteller like a character from a children’s story. The time for Emerson’s and Speight’s pints would come later.

There was lots to see on the peninsula by day as well, including its wildlife and Lanarch Castle. I’ll admit, that with all my British snobbery, Lanarch Castle felt more like a stately home than a castle, but nevertheless it was a visit worthy of a few snaps that made their way onto my Instagram page. 

I had underestimated how long the journey up the east coast would be. While the coastal drive up through Waitati and Timaru was lovely, I pulled into Christchurch long after the sun had set, tired and ravenous. After a quick google search, I set off in search of Burger King – a large whopper meal being the only thing that could satiate me. To be honest, there was something quite ominous about Christchurch by night. I think it was something to do with the giant murals peeking through the shadows on partially street lit walls. But in the early morning light, the whole place transformed into something else entirely…

***

I’ll leave you with the image of me inhaling my burger by streetlight because my ferry to Wellington has commenced boarding and I should probably get a move on.  

More on Christchurch and onwards a bit later! Spoiler alert – I did in fact make it from Christchurch to Picton.